About Spiti

Rudyard Kipling in his novel “Kim” described Spiti as ‘a world within a world’ and ‘a place where the gods live’. While these lines were written over a century ago, Spiti has stayed true to character, retaining much of its mystical aura and serenity.

Tucked away in the Indian Trans-Himalayas of Himachal Pradesh, this beautiful high altitude cold desert reaches for the skies at average altitudes of 3600 mts. With a population of a little over 10,000 occupying an area of over 7500 sq km, Spiti is one of the most sparsely populated areas in India.

Baring stark cultural and ecological similarities with its neighbour Tibet, Spiti is home to a purely homogenous Buddhist society with some of the oldest and most spectacular living monasteries. Spiti lay isolated and closed to the outside world till the early 1990’s, when it was first opened up to the outside world. As a result various ancient and mystical Buddhist practices remain intact and are practiced here till date.

Spiti is one of the most spectacular regions to visit in India. Rust and bronze mountains touching azure skies, turquoise lakes, gushing streams, rolling meadows and pastel hues impart a softness to this otherwise stark desert scape.

History

Spiti, originally pronounced ‘Piti’ (the middle land), was historically part of Western Tibet (Nariss Korssum). In the 11th century AD Nimagon, the king of Nariss Korssum divided his kingdom amongst his 3 sons, of which Spiti and Zanskar together formed a separate kingdom. Later, Ladakh took over the suzerainty of Spiti and Zanskar, and the area was governed by the Nono – younger brother of the King of Ladakh.

It was only after the invasion of Ladakh by Zorawar Singh that Spiti became part of Kullu. It remained an independent principality for many years, under the judicial and administrative rule of the Nonos (adopted as the title for the king of Spiti) during the British Raj.

Geography & Climate

Millions of years ago, Spiti lay submerged under the Tethys sea. Remnants of its geological past are evident in its unique landscape & diverse fossils of marine life. The Spitian Himalayas afford a fascinating insight into the geological past of the Himalayas. The Geological Society of America recently declared Spiti as the most fossil rich area in the World.

Surrounded by high mountains on all sides, Spiti lies in the rain shadow of the mighty Himalayas. As a result, it receives scanty rainfall and experiences extreme climate and temperature variations ranging from -30 degree to +30 degrees centigrade. Spiti remains covered in snow and most villages are cut off from the rest of the world for more than 4 months in a year.

Flora & Fauna

Despite being a high-altitude cold desert, Spiti boasts of more than 450 species of medicinal & aromatic plants, many of whom form an important part of the Tibetan traditional healing systems.

Spiti is also home to some of the rarest and most endangered species of fauna such as the Snow Leopard and the Himalayan Wolf. Also found here is the Siberian Ibex, Blue Sheep, Red Fox, Pika and Weasels. The Ibex is well adapted to the extreme environment, making it a fascinating study. A thick winter coat helps protect it against the intense cold whereas the summer coat is a thinner dark brown. Ibex goats spend most of the winter on steep cliffs that are highly prone to avalanches.

The avifauna of the region includes the Lammergeier, Himalayan Griffon, Golden Eagle, Chukar Partridge, Himalayan Snow Cock and a host of Rosefinches.

There are 2 protected areas in Spiti, namely the –

Pin Valley National Park

The valley of the Pin river is a protected National Park. The park encompasses an area of 675 sq kms as a core zone and a buffer zone of 1150 sq kms.

Kibber Wildlife Sanctuary

The Kibber Wildlife sanctuary is located on the left bank of the Spiti river and is linked with road via Lhalung, Langza & Kibber village. It is spread over an area of over 2200 sq km and is segregated in an outer buffer zone and an inner “protected area”. It is the only sanctuary in the country which is situated in a cold desert area.

Religion & Culture

Spiti is a Buddhist society belonging to the Mahayana (Vajrayana) sect of Tibetan Buddhism. Before the advent of Buddhism in Spiti, the communities followed a popular animistic creed called Bon. In the 9th century AD, Padmasambhava brought Buddhism to the valley and the people embraced this non-violent and compassionate religion. In 11th century AD, Rinchen Zangpo, the Great Translator is credited with establishing various monasteries in Spiti – Tabo, Kee, and Sarkhang – and several in Ladakh as well.

The major Vajrayana Buddhist sects in Spiti are Sakyapa, Nyingmapa, and Gelugpa. Each of these sects thrive in specific regions. Their unique and distinct practices add diversity to the vibrant cultural life of the region. The Pin Valley in Spiti is also home to the mystical Bhuchen Lamas of the Nyingmapa sect of Buddhism.

Home to some of the oldest Buddhist monasteries and temples in the world, various unique aspects of traditional Tibetan Buddhist culture are well-preserved and have flourished in the Spiti Valley for generations.

Spirituality is an anchor and a way of life in Spiti. Chortens and Mane walls are present everywhere, and enchanting intonations of ‘Om Mane Padme Hum’ resonate throughout the Valley.

Monasteries in Spiti

There are 5 main Monasteries in Spiti – Tabo, Dhankhar, Kungri, Tangyut, Kee – and some unique Buddhist temples dating back over a thousand years. These ancient monasteries offer space and sanctuary for the spiritual aspirations of the local community, often leading the way to a monastic life.

Tabo

Tabo – Founded in 996 AD by Lotsawa Rinchen Zangpo. It is the stronghold of the Gelugpa sect of Vajrayana Buddhism in Spiti Valley.

Dhankar

Is easily the most spectacular in Spiti and belongs to the Gelugpa sect.

Kungri

The original monastery was built around 1330 AD and provides unmistakable evidence of the Tantric cults as practiced in the Pin valley. This belongs to the Nyingmapa sect

Kee

Dromton, a disciple of Atisa, is attributed with the construction of the Kee Monastery in the early 11th century. It belongs to the Gelugpa sect.

Komik

The Thangyud Gonpa is one of the highest Vajrayana Buddhist monasteries in the world. After Dhankar ceased to be the capital of Spiti and the Nono relocated to Quiling, royal patronage was extended to this monastery. This belongs to the Sakyapa sect.

Lhalung

The Sarkhang (Golden Temple), has also been attributed to be built by Lotsawa Rinchen Zangpo.

Festivals in Spiti

Life in Spiti is hard and tough but one wouldn’t guess that, looking at and living with the people. Celebrations and festivities (commonly referred to as Changka) form an integral part of Spiti life and are occasions for the community to eat, drink, sing and dance together. Births (pingri), weddings (phaklen) and festivals are celebrated by the community as a whole. Some of the important festivals celebrated in Spiti are:

Losar: Celebrated to welcome the new year in mid-November. In the past, this used to be an occasion for people from all villages to congregate and trade.

Dacchang: Celebrated during winters. The myth is that a wicked demon once lived here and was finally killed by a child. This festival marks the victory of good over evil and is celebrated in January-February.

Pingri: Birth celebrations.

Paklen: Wedding celebrations. Weddings are held usually between the months from September to November after the busy summer season is over and before the onset of severe winter and are week-long community celebrations.

Namkan: Celebrated to welcome the harvest of crops and to pray for a good harvest, people dress up in their traditional finery – there are prayers, horse races, and a season of song and dance! Celebrated around August in the villages of Lhalung, Dhankhar, Demul and Kibber. In the villages of Komic, Hikkim and Langza this is celebrated on the 15th of August and goes by the name of Yardong.

Losar: This takes place every fourth year in Tabo & Dhankhar when Lamas worship God Jigyet for 6 days. On the 7th day, Chahar is thrown into the fire and the Cham dance is performed. It is believed that miseries and diseases are burnt with the Chahar. This is celebrated usually in the last week of September.

Zhe Zhet: Similar to Chahar this takes place every year in Komic. 3 days puja culminates in the Cham dance performed by the monks. This is celebrated usually in the last week of September/ October.

Cham Dance: Celebrated in Kee and Kungri Monasteries in July. The monks wear elaborate masks and is a celebration of the victory of good over evil.

Ladarcha Mela: Previously, this fair used to be celebrated at the ladarcha maidan/ grounds in the month of July/ August. Traders from Tibet, Ladakh, Rampur Bushair and Spiti would meet at the fair to barter their produce. Due to closure of Tibetan traders, this fair is now celebrated at Kaza, the headquarters of Spiti Sub Division in the third week of August. A large number of visitors and traders from the plains gather in what has now become a confluence of cultures of Spiti, Ladakh & Kinnaur, as also of the Indian plains.

Dance & Music

Dance and music are intricately woven into the fabric of Spitian life and culture. The musicians and artists from Lhalung and Demul villages are famous for their cultural performances. Most of the monasteries have masked dance performances during their individual festivals. The Tasor is performed by men on marriage occassions and is an elaborate dance with swords. Both men and women perform the Khar at times together (only in Pin valley) though mostly separately and usually marks the start of a festive occasion/celebration. At marriages the men perform the Khar first while at birthday celebrations the women will dance first.

Arts & Crafts

Despite the harsh terrain and difficult life in Spiti, the region boasts a rich handicrafts tradition. The locals have excelled in arts and crafts that cut across the spectrum, ranging from daily household needs to religious artefacts.

Spiti is home to some unique handicrafts such as Thangkas (paintings on silken canvas), Choksays (wooden carved tables), Mane stones (carving on stones), Zama (Mud craft), Lingzay (traditional shawls) and a variety of wool-based handicrafts. While some of these handicrafts continue to excel, others are slowly disappearing due to varied reasons such as lack of an adequate market which has gradually led to a decline in the skills.

Traditional Agriculture

Agriculture in Spiti shares a delicate balance with the geo-climatic conditions of this cold desert region. Agriculture is limited to one crop a year and is solely dependent on the winter snow melt.

Agriculture forms one of the most important parts of the socio-economic life of the local community. Traditional crops largely grown are barley and a local variety of pea (kala matar or black pea). These are well-suited to the region’s peculiar geo-climatic conditions since they require minimum irrigation and are fairly drought resistant and hardy. Moreover, they are well known for their high nutritional content and capability for increasing soil-fertility. Water for irrigation comes almost totally from glacier melt transported over long distances through small channels, locally known as kuhls.

Cuisine

Spiti food traditions are partly inherited from Tibetan kitchens (Tibetan bread such as Tingmo and Tirik, Soups such as Thukpa and Thentuk, Momos – stuffed dumplings) and partly adapted to what is produced locally.

Kyu, a vegetable-barley stew is a local favourite. The common Indian cuisine of rice, rotis and accompaniments have also become popular ever since the import of rice and wheat became viable.

No festival, social gathering, or occasion is complete without the local tipple of Chang (barley beer) and Arak (harder fermented barley alcohol). For the teetotallers, sweet milk tea are also popular and offered through the day. Chaza – salted butter tea made from Yak butter is very popular amongst the locals and almost tastes like a soup.

Traditional Medicine System

The traditional medical practice here is the Amchi system, also identified by the name ‘Sowa Rigpa’ which means “science of healing”. The word Amchi means “doctor.” This system of medicine is a spiritual practice, a science, and an art that dates back thousands of years. Amchi’s spend their lives mastering the understanding and usage of rare and highly adaptive plants and herbs that grow in the Himalayas from which they make medicines. Disease is diagnosed from the pulse and urine analysis, basis which the treatment and medication is provided.

Only in Spiti

The Bhuchens

The Bhuchens are a unique and rare sect of Tibetan Buddhist theatrical artists that preach religious, social and ecological morals to the locals through a set of diverse performances. Followers of Tholdan Gyalpo, who invented this art in the early 11th century A.D, they are now only found in the Spiti valley after disappearing from Tibet and Ladakh

Self Mummified Monk

Gue, a tiny village in Spiti only 9 km from the Indo -Tibet border is home to India’s most recently-discovered mummy. Identified as the remains of a Buddhist monk, Sangha Tenzin was in his 40s when he passed away. Sangha Tenzin was a monk of the Gelugpa order who lived in the 15th century when the area was suffering a terrible famine.

Remarkably unlike the mummies we’re familiar with, his body was found without any embalming properties. The cold, arid climate of the region might have assisted the preservation process. According to legend, Sangha Tenzin practised Zogchen – the highest form of meditation. The Lama used a ‘Gomthak’ (meditation belt that monks usually wear) to tie his neck to his knee, aiming to free the body and send the spirit to a higher realm. Through this act of self-asphyxiation and sacrifice, the Lama hoped to turn his body into a relic and free his brethren from suffering.

The mummy was found by the ITBP (Indo-Tibetan Border Police) during excavations following a devastating earthquake here in the 70s. No chemical or embalming methods were used on the body. His body parts – including teeth and hair – remain intact to this day and he remains in a sitting, meditating position.